When to Go
"When you go to New Orleans, you ought to see the Mardi
Gras." So sang the legendary New Orleans pianist, Professor
Longhair, and if you want to experience one of the largest, wildest
communal celebrations on earth, then you should heed his advice. Mardi
Gras is not just a day; Carnival Season starts on Twelfth Night (January
6th) and gradually builds with countless costume balls, extravagant
parties, and parades all over town until its culmination on Fat Tuesday
(47 days before Easter).The entire event is derived from the Catholic
tradition of purging fleshly desires before the Lenten period of
abstinence. By the last weekend of Carnival, the city is mobbed with
visitors eager to tap into the spirit of Dionysus. The French Quarter
becomes a surreal, liquor-saturated, "anything goes at all
hours" epicenter. Men in drag and outrageous costumes of all kinds
are common, and people on balconies and in the streets are known to do
bare almost anything (within limits!) in exchange for the beads and
trinkets being thrown about.
But the partying does not end with Mardi Gras. Only a few months
later, at the end of April, the city hosts the prodigious New Orleans
Jazz & Heritage Festival (commonly referred to as "Jazz
Fest"). This is the largest paid music festival in the world,
attracting close to 500,000 people for an annual 10-day celebration of
the city's indigenous music, food, and culture. New Orleans is credited
as the birthplace of jazz, but the music-saturated culture of southern
Louisiana has also played a crucial role in the development of blues,
gospel, soul, rhythm and blues, rock- and-roll, funk, zydeco, Cajun and
almost every major form of American popular music. It's all on display
at its finest at the Jazz Fest, and complimented by Louisiana delicacies
such as alligator sauce picante, seafood gumbo, and softshell crawfish
"po-boy" sandwiches. During the day, music pours forth from a
dozen stages and tents in an atmosphere resembling the world's largest
backyard barbecue. At night, music lovers choose from over 60 live-music
clubs all brimming with soulful sounds, in some cases past dawn.
While they're both immense parties that provide unforgettable
experiences, Mardi Gras tends to attract a crowd more interested in the
liberation of the flesh (read: college students), while Jazz Fest places
more emphasis on artistic expression and cultural exploration. Whichever
you choose, however, remember to book reservations well in advance, as
airline seats and rooms are at a premium during both events.
Festive New Orleans is bustling year-round and draws tourists in all
seasons. The winters are mild, but in the summer months, from May
through September, the high heat and humidity can become stifling.
October is a favorite month for locals and travelers. This is when the
heat finally breaks and the populace is invigorated by cool northern
breezes. The city is not overcrowded with tourists at this time, and the
lush foliage seems more ripe and colorful beneath crystal clear blue
skies (rainfall amounts are lowest in October).
What to Take
Light, casual clothing is most comfortable during the
spring, summer, and fall. During the short winter-like period (from
November through January) heavier clothing is necessary, although
temperatures rarely ever drop below freezing. As the sub-tropical climate
of New Orleans is entirely unpredictable, it is advisable to have both
sunglasses and an umbrella close at hand. Many of the finer New Orleans
restaurants require that men dress in coat and tie, but some permit jacket
only; others require that you only bring a healthy appetite. Because the
French Quarter is best explored on foot, comfortable walking shoes are a
must.
Time Zone
New Orleans is in the Central Time
Zone (six hours behind Greenwich Mean Time). Daylight Savings Time is in
effect from early April through to late October.
